A new build......seriously the stuff of legend

[c4ptiv3]

TRD head gasket and SQ Engineering ported oil pump have arrived. Also picking up the gaskets/seals to replace the fuel pump and fuel sending unit this Saturday. Last thing I am waiting on is the fully custom sump and getting the cams polished.

[SkabRock5]

booyah!! its on now.

[c4ptiv3]

It's definitely getting close, no thanks to the engine shop though. This should have been done about a month ago.

I'm almost to the point of picking it up and finishing it myself, I'm dropping the rest of the stuff off on Friday at his shop, he better make chop chop to it.

[c4ptiv3]

Cams are done at the polisher and the oil pan has shipped, the ball is now entirely in the Machine Shop's court. They need to hurry the flock up.

[milchmann]

... except those are actually geese ...

[c4ptiv3]

GET THE FLOCK OUTTA HERE!!!!!

[milchmann]

GET THE FLOCK OUTTA HERE!!!!!

Yeah, sorry ... it wasn't all it was quacked up to be, guess the yoke is on me.

[cdixon311]

Release the quackin!

[c4ptiv3]

Launchpad McQuack.

Some recent updates and developments.

The MRP wet sump showed up and is pretty cool looking, even though it seems quite large it should be much smaller than the 2 pan setup that was OEM. This is good news for me because I was worried about scrapping this expensive piece of aluminum on the ground.





I had scheduled cdixon311 and a few others to show up this coming weekend to get things done for 8/6 day, however, in typical Vandever fashion there was a series of mishaps, shipping errors and other bullshit that has pushed this back.

So, where to begin.... Matrix garage sent me the incorrect bearings for the crank as well as for the rods, luckily the crank I had ordered came with bearings that we decided to use.

Later on that evening I got a video from the machine shop. It was of my cams installed, and in said video the guy was grabbing the cams and jiggling them with his hands, they were very loose. I decided to trash them and order a new set. My previous cams were 272 duration with 7.5mm lift and I wanted to go bigger, however, my HKS springs will bind @ 8.5mm lift. From everything I've looked at it seems I can't get a bigger duration or even the same as I was running before. Most 272s have a 9.0mm lift which is much more than my springs can handle and I'd rather not by a third set of springs. I'm currently looking at some Tomei 264s with 8.1mm lift. These are about $520.00, there are other options but they are bit more expensive and at this point I'm trying to reduce money spent. I'm assuming the increased lift will make up for the shorter duration, can anyone chime in on this?

Also, we were sent the incorrect piston rings as well. The machine shop is supposed to pick some up today so hopefully he can get the block completed today and then he'll just be waiting on the cams. If things go correctly I'm hoping to get the engine back to my place this weekend but I do not expect it to fall that way.

Lastly, while researching parts I stumbled across some clutch specs for the Toyota OEM clutch and I saw that it was only good for like 115hp. This greatly concerned me since I am using an Aisin OEM replacement. I was hoping i could limp by on that until I could do a transmission upgrade but it looks like this may force my hand which sucks. This also could explain why my numbers fell off hard at 118hp on the dyno, I'm wondering if the clutch was starting to slip. I'm still looking for what the Aisin is rated at before proceeding with the purchase of a stage 2 clutch.

That's all I have for now, I hope to actually make some progress soon.

[milchmann]

Whether adding lift helps a motor is wholly dependent on port shape, runner volume/shape, and cylinder volume ... More lift however does not make up for less duration, just as more duration does not make up for less lift. Lift can be used to adjust charge air pressure on NA motors similar to what happens when you put your thumb over the end of a water hose, when you increase pressure you reduce flow though. In other words higher pressure intake charge (lower lift) allows for denser air, but takes longer. So the question then becomes mass air flow. Some heads need reduced pressure to allow filling the cylinder completely and others can take advantage of higher pressure faster moving air.

To really know what the effect on a given head you need an EXTREMELY expensive specialized flow tank, but it can also be approximated by measuring mean dynamic pressure with and without valves on a flow bench ... and since both of those are probably completely out of reach for everyone on this site we have to guess.

Here is a write up talking about volumetric efficiency and mass airflow ... http://www.epi-eng.com/piston_engine_te ... ciency.htm

[c4ptiv3]

Good information.

So, it turns out HKS doesn't even know what the specs are on their own springs, when you contact HKS Japan they tell you to call your regional headquarters and they don't have the information. How a gigantic nationwide company doesn't have this information is beyond me. They've definitely lost a customer of this, and now i have 2 sets of HKS springs I need to sell.

Another 800 bucks, fml.

[milchmann]

Good information.

So, it turns out HKS doesn't even know what the specs are on their own springs, when you contact HKS Japan they tell you to call your regional headquarters and they don't have the information. How a gigantic nationwide company doesn't have this information is beyond me. They've definitely lost a customer of this, and now i have 2 sets of HKS springs I need to sell.

Another 800 bucks, fml.

Valve springs should be continuous rate (you should verify that on your springs by compressing them to different heights though), so it is easy to figure out rate and calculate float. You can have the machine shop test the actual spring rate for you ... they should have a benchtop machine for this. Alternatively you can purchase a drill press attachment to measure the force and use a set of decent calipers to measure the distance compressed.



Calculating coil bind: http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/engine/150 ... e-is-safe/

[c4ptiv3]

I decided f-bomb it. Selling the 7A and going back to bone stock 4A.

The amount of money to needed to fix this properly for my current CR is completely ridiculous and not worth it.

Here's a parts list if anyone is looking for stuff. https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/ ... sp=sharing" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[dr.occa]

Can't say as I blame ya @c4ptiv3. Get a 4A in there for now and enjoy your car for a change. These shops don't know how to dribble: they keep dropping the ball.

[c4ptiv3]

I've had very little interest in the 7A stuff thus far, so I'm slowly tinkering with it at my own pace instead of rushing it.

Tested my HKS springs and they bind at 13.5mm, so I don't have to run a Toda underbucket kit for the head, so I think I'll keep it atleast. If the engine get's completed at my pace without being sold I might keep it but right now I'm just frustrated with it.

I've been cleaning the ITBs using and ultrasonic cleaner with Simple Green and Dawn dish soap. While they do look way better, they still look dinghy and stained. I'm also assuming they are aluminum and i did some research and saw that Simple Green is very bad for Aluminum and I'm scared I may have damaged them in some way. Anyone have any input on this?

I finally got the igniter re-wired.