www.86garage.com

Ok so after posting in the drift setup thread I went digging for all of the info on my four link. Enjoy!

You will need these parts to make the four link. I ordered them from speedway motors and mccaster-carr. I bought all of the washers and nuts from them even though they cost a little more so if you can find them for less go for it.

parts from speedwaymotors.com for the four link

2 91034158-15 Aluminum Tie Rod Sleeve, 5/8", 15" $7.95 EA

2 91034158-7 Aluminum Tie Rod Sleeve, 5/8", 7" $7.95 EA

1 1756048-LH JAM NUTS 5/8", STEEL 6/PACK $3.45 EA

1 1756048-RH JAM NUTS 5/8", STEEL 6/PACK $3.45 EA

Parts From mcmaster-carr.com

4 2458K171 CARBON-FIBER RACE BALL JOINT ROD END, 5/8"-18 RH MALE SHANK, 7400 POUND LOAD CAPACITY $13.72 EA

4 2458K172 CARBON-FIBER RACE BALL JOINT ROD END, 5/8"-18 LH MALE SHANK, 7400 POUND LOAD CAPACITY $13.72 EA

8 6381K47 ALLOY 932 (SAE 660) BRONZE SLEEVE BEARING, FOR 1/2" SHAFT DIAMETER, 5/8" OD, 3/4" LENGTH 1.24 EA

2 packs 91166A290 METRIC DIN 125 ZINC-PLATED STEEL FLAT WASHER, M12 SCREW SIZE, 13MM ID, 24MM OD, 2.3-2.7MM THICK $6.25 EA

If you build it this way the total comes to around $170 $150 without nuts and washers

good info thanks will.

goosh has a link to a write up on the panhard bar. came out to 60 bucks.

i've been asking for this for so long and now you post it.....

Thanks Will

will, how was bolt clearance with each link?

were the factory bolts just as snug as with the stock 4 links or was there more play?

also, did you also make your own panhard? if so, did you have to grind down the pivot point on the axle or did you use metric spherical rod ends?

you can get rod ends with differand inside diameters. if they dont fit quit right you can use brass bushings found at ace hardware to take up the slack.

mooreofit wrote:you can get rod ends with differand inside diameters. if they dont fit quit right you can use brass bushings found at ace hardware to take up the slack.

eh. i guess. well, it's up to the individual.

personally, the less slop in the suspension the better. it makes more sense to opt for metric rod ends OR drill out the mount points in the chassis and rear end and fit in the SAE appropriate carriage bolt.

thats what i was getting at. you can get rod ends at 3\4 inside diameter. say the 4 link bolt is 1\2 inch. you can get a bushing at 3\4 inch o.d and 1\2 inch id.

never mind you are correct jonah. for some reason i didnt read your last post right. i wasnt thinking about the metric\sae differance.

this setup fits very snug on the bolt. you have to take up the left and right slack with washers but if you do it right there is no slack. The panhard is a little different because you have to sand down the mount on the diff i will post it if you guys are interested

great!!! with pics?

ill try to get some

good stuff this has also been on c4ag for who knows how long either way good stuff for the budget tunners

When I did mine I used 5/8's rod ends and simply drilled out the holes to match.I little tricky doing the chassis mounts for clearance but doable.

so can you order stuff from these people to make other stuff. say adj tie rods ect.?