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Is this difficult to change? Will I need any special tools?

no special tools to remove it other than hand tools.. but the time i did it many years ago the engine was out.. i don't know how hard it will be or if it can be done with the engine still on... i am sure it can be done by undoing the motor mount and jack up the engine a little.. don't know if it will clear to do it... but i am sure some else will chime in with a better solution....

Do not use a cork gasket. The FSM tells you to buy toyota oil pan and cam shaft FIPG. Lay a bead between block and windage tray, and tray and oil pan. Stay inside the bolts/studs to avoid leakage. The FIPG is $10ish at the dealer

What is FIPG?

form in place gasket. Its like rtv, but get the toyota stuff. Its 1000x better

Ohhh it's like that right stuff gasket maker. Lol that stuff is pretty good. I'm just not big on rtv for oil pans I had a bad experience doing that with my supra....

Its not rtv, toyota makes it for this purpose.

Ohhh I see. How much is that stuff?

Ok thanks for the info

Here's the trick if you don't mind me adding my .02:

#1 - clean ALL mating surfaces thoroughly with degreaser and chase it with a swab of rubbing alcohol & let air dry
#2 - lay down the bead
#3 - there should be 2 studs still in the block on either side (L & R), line up the pan and thread the nuts on a couple of turns, then put in 1 or 2 bolts in the front and rear - GENTLY FINGER TIGHTEN THE BOLTS AND NUTS ENOUGH TO PRESS THE PAN UP AGAINST THE FIPG BUT NOT SQUEEZE IT OUT in a star pattern.
#4 - let it set for a couple of hours
#5 - come back and hand tighten them NOT GORILLA HANDS (again star pattern)
#6 - let it set another hour and tighten to factory torque (again star pattern) and let sit over night
#7 - tighten again to factory torque (again star pattern).
#8 - fill with oil (weight of oil introduced new variable to pan/block mating). tighten to factory torque.

Seems like a long process but it's worth it isn't it.

That's not even close to what I was told to do on my supra oil pan....might be why I had problems lol. Thanks for the info! All of this has been vary helpful.

Oh yeah, keep in mind that you'll have a windage tray that's sandwiched between the block and pan so you'll need a bead of FIPG between both sides of the "salami".

dr.occa wrote:Oh yeah, keep in mind that you'll have a windage tray that's sandwiched between the block and pan so you'll need a bead of FIPG between both sides of the "salami".

Well I finally got around to doing this yesterday and there was nothing between the pan and block...?
I also still have an oil leak I believe its the crankshaft seal the oil pan looked leak free.

Turns out it was my front crankshaft seal changed it and my leaks fixed.