www.86garage.com

yup.. id hate to say it but i need help.. im more of a do it your self but in this case id rather get help and stuff... if anyone lives in houston and has free time on their hands to help me with the bt20v, man i would really appreciate it.. and lunch on me...

do i have to take the gts oil pan off and put it on the 20v?? do i need the oil cooler?? how many licks does it take to get to the center of a tootsie roll pop?? can someone please answer these questions n then some...

theres a few ppl on here that have done the 20v swap im sure whenever they're online they would help you out with your questions i personally have no idea so can't help much

20v oil pan will work. you might want to take it off just to reseal it though.

dont need the stock gts oil cooler.

mandm177 wrote:20v oil pan will work. you might want to take it off just to reseal it though.

dont need the stock gts oil cooler.

so i can just remove it and keep the 20v oil pan on there or wut?? and if i need to exchange oil pans wut do i do with the oil cooler lines on the gts pan??

Why are you wanting to swap out the oil pans? Are you wanting to swap out oil pans for the GTS oil cooler drain back?

dr.occa wrote:Why are you wanting to swap out the oil pans? Are you wanting to swap out oil pans for the GTS oil cooler drain back?

nah jonas.. i was just asking becuz someone told me i needed to.. just making sure and the way u asked im guessing i dont have to.. and no i dont need the gts oil cooler.. can i just take it off?? like theres no need for it anymore?? thats wut im asking..

For one thing, the 16v GTS oil pan won't fit the 20v. The 20v oil pan is notched on the firewall (fwd)/ right side (rwd) and so is the block mating surface so no wookie.

You'll be fine without the oil cooler. If you really want to run one though, I recommend a thermostatic controlled oil cooler adapter. Greddy makes one (I run it) for the S13/zenki S14 SR20 that fits the 4AG just fine. I believe I have the info posted somewhere around here.

okay my headers came in but theyre for the gts.. most of the nuts n bolts align except the ones in the end... do i need those to be bolted down?? or wut?? and wut can i do modify it.. ill post pics later..

Can you return them and get this?

so i take that as a no...?? and i dont kno.. yea im sure i can return them but i dont wanna go through all that hassle... aw man... this sucks.. then my TPS is broken and theres not ONE available anywhere.. im super screwed... :weapons61: <<<- me...

Gts_coupe87 wrote:so i take that as a no...?? and i dont kno.. yea im sure i can return them but i dont wanna go through all that hassle... aw man... this sucks.. then my TPS is broken and theres not ONE available anywhere.. im super screwed... :weapons61: <<<- me...

I have a few TPS's. aaaaaaaand I also weld soooo the end holes are nooooo prob to fix. See that was easy haha

okay.. now i gotta get ur number and see how much youll charge me for both things...

you can just notch the end holes, and bolt them down.

I have the OBX headers that Jonas linked to, and ive heard that there are fitment issues if you use stock mounts. I have cusco engine and tranny mounts, and it seems to fit fine.

Notching works too as well as getting Corey to weld in material so it doesn't look as bad. Cusco motor mounts should resolve any floorboard clearance issues.