The How To 16V Waterpump Conversion On 20V Engine (mr john)

[dr.occa]

so it seems like alot of people want answers to this question. ive done this conversion about a dozen times now without any issues and have found that this is the cleanest and simplest way to do this. heres what ive got:

first step is to remove the head from the engine and clean all the oil residue off

then grab your handy dandy die grinder with alluminum bit and grind a passage between the two water ports





now block of the remaining ports, if you want to run factory sensors they can be mounted to these plates or upper radiator hose, you can also run heater lines here.



now reinstall the head using a 16v headgasket.

the 16v water pump has two extra passeges, one for the heater and one for the thermostat bypass. i always remove these by torching them and pulling them out. i then weld up the holes. you can leave the heater passage if you plan on keeping your heater.i also take the factory hard line from the 20v pump from the back of the pump to the cylinder head and cut the flange off, then weld the 90 degree end of it back on to make an upper hose:



to use the factory 16v crank pulley about 1/16 inch needs to be shaved off the back to allign with the 16v alternator and water pump.

thats about it. if you guys have any questions or need more details feel free to ask

[dr.occa]

Finally got a chance to post what I end up doing.(thanks for the idea from MR JOHN)


took the stock gasket from the 20v and got plates cnc(i made my own at first but turn out like crap)

cut/drill/port out the inside of the head for the coolant bypass and drill a hole to mount the other sensors


I wanted to keep heat so i weld on a -an8 fitting and used the -an8 hose fitting to route the hose for the heater core, also have all the sensor mounted to the oem located(will have more pictures of how i mount the the other sensor to the lower thermostat housing)

and the very last(this one I org cut my self out of a hack saw n etc)

Sorry about the pictures, I took them with my cell phone. I hope this help others that doesn't want to weld up their head, remove, and keep their heating and sensors.

I'm getting more made(these were just pronto-type), I end up using them any ways. Others will be at least 1/2 inch.

[CBR_TOY]

i see our conversation has inspired a thread.... i shall be doing this as well

[dr.occa]

H8S and i were talking last night and i had mentioned how rusakoff had done this back in 07. we both thought that block off plates would make it more adjustable rather than permanent. and i remembered someone had thought the same thing and found the post.

if noone is going to be running their heater lines than deleting the rear heater line and the thermostat bypass from the water pump works just as well for the 16v setups too especially if you're dropping in a hi-comp.

a few holes in the thermostat so that coolant does flow through during warm up is an old exercise from hot rod days.

[CBR_TOY]

yea i'm not running heater.... but i would like to now more about the drilling holes for warm up and the thermo bypass

[CBR_TOY]

anyone got an idea of what die grinder he used.... i used what i had at work and got a decent hole

[dr.occa]

yea i'm not running heater.... but i would like to now more about the drilling holes for warm up and the thermo bypass

essentially, just drill 2 or 3 holes in the thermostat so that some water begins passing through since the bypass pipe will be gone. you don't even necessarily need to do away with the bypass pipe but just block of the back of both upper and lower water housings since you'll be doing away with the heater and heater core.